Of the four fashion city’s, they each have different strengths during fashion month and for Paris, that strength, season, after season, comes from the beauty department. It’s here that the designers take the most risks with their hair and makeup and this season certainly didn’t disappoint. We had the big hair from Miu Miu, the major eye makeup looks from both Altuzarra and Yves Saint Laurent and of course, those glitter bombs that seemingly exploded backstage at Giambattista Valli. They may not be entirely appropriate for the everyday wear but they serve plenty of inspiration to liven up our new season beauty looks.
Makeup artist, Peter Philips wasn’t messing around when prepping the Dries Van Noten models for their runway moment, leaving the lashes do the talking. Philips painted both top and bottom lashes with neon hued mascara in grren, blue, orange and purple. The look was complimented by Sam McKnight’s hair creation for the collection, gently placing a single colourful ostrich feather along models parting or sweeping right across their foreheads. In describing the look, McKnight explained, “It’s a simple, clean but strong idea, almost invisible but just enough definition to catch the eye.”
Maison Margiela took a similar approach on the colourful front, sending his models out with bold lip looks created by beauty industry legend, Pat McGrath who painted models’ lips matte, opaque shades of blue and green to create a one dimensional effect.
Louis Vuitton seized this season to shake things up, breaking away from their usual beauty look of barely there makeup with freshly washed hair and chose to embrace graphic liners and eyeshadows. No two eye liner designs were the same but each shared a similar sporty vibe.
It’s In The Eyes
Tom Pecheux created a “couture punky eye” for Yves Saint Laurent, complete with sharp wings punctuated by a touch of silver shadow along the inner corner of the eye. Elie Saab on the other hand, took a more subtle approach, embracing underliner in true sophisticated, French manner using a hazy charcoal eyeshadow swept gently across models’ eyelids, adding a touch of mascara and bringing the look to life with strokes of blue along the bottom waterline.
Responding to the demand for colour this season, Dior called upon their Diorshow Onstage Liner to frame eyes with electric colour liner. The eyeliner is now available to shop in shades of black, vinyl black, brown, pink, bright blue, matte blue, classic blue, purple and many more.
Back for Altuzarra, Pecheux used softer pastel tones, cutting through lavender eyeshadow with exaggerated black wings and introduced blue eyeshadow as highlighter for the look.
The Braidy Bunch
Paco Rabane opted for razor thin braids that snaked along the centre partings of models, diffusing into a chaotic but beautiful tangle at the ends. Guido Palau wove hair into taut glossy plaits for Alexander McQueen, citing a “powerful, pagan-like warrior” as his inspiration for the look. At Atlein it was a mesmerising intricacy of basket-weave braids and for Thom Browne, lopsided, gravity defying twists were the new way to approach braids.
Paul Hanlon’s creation of Sonia Rykiel involved crimping, teasing, a lot of hairspray, heat tools and patience to sculpt hair into the architectural shapes and waves necessary. Hard work and patience didn’t go unnoticed either as Hanlon took to Instagram, crediting his team in the caption, “Huge huge thanks to my incredible team for smashing this and thank you to all the models for sitting through this hair,”
Miu Miu’s hair game reached new heights with show stopping bouffants with a life of their own, grounded by Pat McGrath’s smudgy black makeup look.
Hair at Valentino looked like a simple ponytail upon first glance but look a little closer and its clear that smooth, shiny hair, the strands used strategically to hide elastics and the two pieces of hair hanging nonchalantly over the ears, took more work than they’d have us believe. As did Chanel’s beach waves, messy top knots and gold glittery highlighter looks.
If simplicity is key this season, it’s one trend we can definitely get on board with.